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Climbing at Coll de Nargó: A Hidden Gem in the Catalan Pyrenees

Ana remembers the first time she came here, when she and her husband Alex, after a successful climbing day, stopped for a coffee. The two had just found their way back to Ana’s home country of Spain after many years working in Central and South America. The baker casually mentioned an old stone house, still owned by his family, perched on a hill, slowly falling apart. This was the trigger, as neither Ana nor Alex could stop thinking about the charming village of Coll de Nargó—with its seemingly endless potential for world-class rock climbing—nor the old, abandoned house in the middle of nowhere.



Coll de Nargó is a phenomenon. Compared to the many renowned Spanish climbing destinations like Siurana, Margalef, or Oliana, here you’ll definitely find peace and quiet—despite the fact that the vertical rock formations will leave you wide-eyed in awe at first glance. A massive, sprawling rock face looms over the village like a fortress. Whether limestone, gneiss, or conglomerate, whether a sunny south-facing wall or a shady tufa cave, and especially whether you’re looking for a relaxed warm-up circuit or ambitious climbing at the limit, this place offers it all. And all within walking distance, with the unbeatable advantage of being able to switch sectors at will. After an early warm-up on the sun-drenched world-class routes at Coll Piquer, you can easily shift to the north-facing walls or the more athletic, steeper projects in the Maneirons and D'Abaix sectors as the heat picks up. Thanks to its versatility, Coll de Nargó isn’t just a classic winter climbing area—it’s a place you can climb all year round, with new five-star lines opening almost daily thanks to the active development community.

Patxi Usobiaga is one of the contributors to this scene. Together with his wife Ingrid, the former Lead World and European Champion, Patxi is an important figure in the local climbing community. A few years ago, the couple opened a small bouldering gym in the heart of the village called "The Temple." Located right next to "La Societat," the cozy village pub, it has become an essential meeting spot for climbers. Over Patatas Bravas and a few beers, not only are they discussing complex cruxes, but also, of course, the big topics of life. Ingrid sees the fresh energy brought by the climbing community as a great thing for Coll de Nargó. The village, like many rural Spanish towns, has struggled with significant emigration in recent decades, leading to social inequality. Young people were leaving for the cities due to limited career prospects. But now, it seems like a blessing that Coll de Nargó’s natural resources have turned into a new, regional sense of community at just the right time.



When it comes to top-tier climbing, Urgell really offers a wealth of options. Often, the mindset during the elegant movements upwards transitions between disbelief and pure fascination. The rock formations are unique and wonderfully varied, the sequences of holds are special, and the climbing is simply captivating. The bolting is always adequate, even if some of the older routes still have their first bolts in places that may feel a bit more “adventurous” to familiar climbers. It's hard to pick a favorite from the endless array of unique sectors, but "Paret del Grau," and especially the line "El corall fa mal" there, definitely deserve the title of a standout route. Scaling incredible rock features, you’ll ascend in awe, only for the crux right before the anchor to demand your full concentration. If, after a few packed climbing days, you eventually need a rest day, the region also offers a variety of options. Organyà, the neighboring town to Coll de Nargó, is famous as one of Spain’s best paragliding spots, so it’s ideal for aerial enthusiasts. Well-marked trails also invite you to explore the surrounding area on foot. At the foot of the impressive "Pic de Costa Cabirolera," a relaxed hike up to the alpine meadows of "Prat de Cadí" offers the perfect balance, and if you don’t want to leave Coll de Nargó at all, the kayak rental by the reservoir is always an option, especially in the summer months when the cool water is a welcome relief.



Ana and Alex also couldn’t resist the charm of filling the old, crumbling stone house with new life. With loving attention to detail and a remarkable, visionary outlook, they created "Casa el Puí." This guesthouse sits a few kilometers above Coll de Nargó on a large property, blessed with a breathtaking view of the surrounding landscape and nestled among a handful of very versatile climbing sectors. The most iconic of these is undoubtedly the "Feixa"—a striking, sloping rock face where one mega-route after another awaits, offering potential for an entire climbing lifetime. In recent years, the Feixa has increasingly become the focus of local developers and climbers, with challenges primarily in the upper grades. The energy-independent house at the base of the mountain can accommodate up to fourteen people and is a place for community and intercultural exchange. All rooms are stylishly furnished and equipped with private bathrooms. Ana and Alex spoil their guests with regional delicacies grown in their own garden, filling the place with a contagious joy and vitality, together with their daughter Gala. Furthermore, Alex is the go-to person for any questions about the area or the still-unsolved beta of your current climbing project. In addition to being a fantastic host, Alex is a certified mountain guide and, of course, a passionate climber. He literally knows every hold here and is available to guide climbing sessions, courses, and private tours. Yoga retreats are also offered regularly and can be easily combined with climbing activities.



So, enough gushing—even though one could go on about this place forever. For a climbing vacation, Coll de Nargó definitely offers plenty to explore, and once you’ve experienced the village and its unique charm, it’s bound to become a top destination for your future climbing trips to the south.

Images: Julian Bückers
 
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