However, I was immediately faced with my first obstacle. My plan to drive through Yosemite Valley and cross the Sierra Nevada didn’t quite work out, as the road was closed due to heavy snowfall. So, I changed my route and headed toward Sacramento, with Lake Tahoe as my first stop.
After a four-hour drive through stunning mountain landscapes, I reached the breathtaking Lake Tahoe. Around the lake and mountains, there are many world-class boulders scattered throughout the area. However, the different bouldering areas are somewhat spread out, and some are only accessible after a two-hour hike. Due to the high elevation, the region is generally better suited for late summer to early autumn, so I stayed in the lower areas along the lake’s coastline.
On my first day, I spent time in the Bliss area, climbing many easier boulders to get used to the rock. The night after my arrival, it started snowing, which, although it made the scenery even more beautiful, made navigating the areas and finding dry boulders much harder. With more snow forecast for the upcoming days, I decided to continue my journey toward my main destination: Bishop.
I followed Highway 395 south, passing through diverse vegetation, past massive mountain lakes, and through narrow valleys until I reached the small town of Bishop. When I saw the first pick-up trucks loaded with crash pads driving through the streets, I knew I had arrived. From Bishop, it’s a 20-minute drive on a bumpy dirt road to the Buttermilks. Wow! The scenery is absolutely majestic. The first boulders that catch your eye are the massive granite giants Grandpa and Grandma Peabody, which are around 16 meters high and probably contain some of the most famous highballs in the world. In the background, the 4020-meter-tall Basin Mountain rises dramatically, a sight that is simply awe-inspiring.
In the first few days, I spent most of my time climbing classics like “Iron Man,” “Cave Route,” and “Buttermilk Stem,” as well as meeting new people with whom I could attempt harder and higher boulders in the following weeks. Not only does it make the experience much more enjoyable to climb with others, but given that most of the boulders here are quite tall, it’s definitely an advantage to have multiple crash pads and a spotter around.
One of my personal highlights was completing the highball “Footprints,” which ascends the back of the Grandpa Peabody Block. After seven challenging moves through the overhang, the crux is to tackle the 12-meter-high, wobbly exit slab with significant air beneath your feet. Keeping a calm head and trusting the friction of your shoes is essential, as there’s no turning back once you’re on the slab. Definitely a thrill not for everyone. But that’s exactly what makes topping out this line and standing on top of the massive block such an indescribable feeling.
l. to r. „Footprints“ & „The Buttermilker“ (8B fb)
However, the biggest highlight of my trip was sending the Chris Sharma classic “The Buttermilker” as my first 8B (V13). The boulder starts from a sitting position beneath a small roof. The crux is a long dynamic move from an undercling to a sloper above the roof, followed by three powerful moves on bad slopers with the help of a toehook. When I first tried the boulder, I couldn’t even complete the individual moves. So, I was even more excited after four sessions of projecting and perfecting the moves to finally top out the boulder. A memory I’ll never forget.
The Buttermilks are not just a world-class bouldering area, but also a stunningly beautiful place in nature. With their countless famous lines and gigantic boulders, they make any boulderer’s heart race. This was definitely not my last trip to this dream location. See you soon, Buttermilks!
Text written by Philipp Kuczora