"I've started climbing in 1996. In 2002 I had a scooter accident where I broke my pelvis pretty badly.
I started climbing again as soon as I could. Eventhough the range of motion of my hip is very limited but I never really cared to much about it. I just compared myself with my friends and set personal goals. Like climbing 8a+. Which I did a couple off in 2012.
In 2019, by coincidents, I heared about the Open Dutch Paraclimbing competion. Apparently I was disabled enough to compete, and 2 months later I was in the Dutch team!"
What does RP3 mean?
"In paraclimbing there are 3 main categorys:
- Visually impaired (B1, B2 & B3)
- Amputees (AU2, AU3, AL1 & AL2)
- And RP. PR stands for limited Range and power. (RP1, RP2 & RP3)
RP3 is the least impaired category, usually only effected in one limb or joint.
I'm an RP3 athlete because the mobility of my right hip is very limited, resulting in a very unique and adaptive climbing style.
For example, I can only lift up my right foot about 25 cm from the ground.
But climbing is an awesome para sport. It doesnt matter how you do it, or what you have to work with. The only thing that matters is getting up the wall in any way thats possible for you."
What does climbing mean to you?
"Climbing is my passion!
The moments I share with friends in a gym, a competition or at a crack are the moments I am the happiest."
Overhang or slab?
"On overhang it's easier to compensate for my lack of hip mobility.
But I definitely "respect" slab skills more! "
How is your mindset going into this competition?& What are your goals for the Innsbruck World cup?
"Interesting question.
My mindset actually changed a lot this season.
At my first World Cup I wanted to find out where I stood on the international level. After doing pretty well at my first WC, silver, I wanted to get gold.
And my maingoal turned out to win the World Championship in Bern. My mindset was focust on result a lot. This helped me to be really focused in my preparation. But it took out the fun a bit.
In Bern I got second, which was kind of hard to digest. Especially the way how I fell at a move that was very cruxy because of my hip mobility. And way before I was pumped.
After Bern I felt very dissapointed. It was hard for me to see all I had achieved and to be proud of the proces and effort I put into this goal. Being this upset felt like a waste of energy.
So my mindset now is to truly enjoy the proces. I love training, I love the struggle, I love competing and the result will be secondary."
Which shoes will you be wearing?
"The Scarpa Drago LV is my favorite shoe by far!
I always used to climb on the yellow Drago's, but after trying the LV's I love them even more. They are sensitive, precise and look good!
My favorite shoe for training long sessions on are the Furia Air. These are amazing too! Go try theme out if you haven't already!"
What are the things you love the most about competitions and the ones you dislike the most?
"I love the hyperfocus you get when on a comp route. I love the fact that you only have one shot at it. And I love that there is no one else to depend on than myself.
I also found it really cool to learn from mistakes, and work on those after the comps are over. The comps made me a better climber.
And I love the privilege I got from being a paraclimbing athlete. Like meeting future Olympians like Scarpa Athlete Campbell Harrison.
Thank you IFSC for investing in Para Climbing!
But I definitely hate the classification proces. It's not a nice feeling when strangers are measering up your impairment to judge if you're disabled enough."
How do you feel about your comp preparation this year? & How many hours a week do you train on average during the preparation for the World Cup?
"This year I haven't been as focused as I was when I trained for Bern. Instead of working at a peak performance, I have been working at getting my base level as high as possible. I train about 3 times per week, and 1 time per week I set at my bouldering gym @boulderhalwalhalla
At this moment I feel strong, but heavy. Let's see how the WC in Innsbruck goes. And I will adjust my training for the Euro Championship in Villars accordingly."
How do you feel about the European Championship (football) and the European Championship (Paraclimb)?
"I love both!! I'm a big "oranje" fan. And I try to watch as many matches as I can.
And how awesome is it that the IFSC and Switzerland are willing to host a dedicated Euro Para Championship!!
Such an honor to climb at an event like that."
How much longer do you want to climb at world cups?
"Hahaha good question!
I have a pretty busy life. Owning bouldering gyms and being a co-parent of a 10 year old son is pretty demending.
But the comps are so much fun! I'm proud to be part of the paraclimbing community and to represent The Netherlands on a international stage."
Favourite music for hyping yourself up for a competition?
"Hip Hop. I've got some favorite Dutch rapper like Sticks, Kevin and Rafello.
But I also really love British Grime.
Here is my getting hyped playlist https://open.spotify.com/playlist/5vtsZk4QWEmgFTTpNUnKuB?si=468e6a3b144144b5
Jamie Barendrecht